Conservatories, Sunrooms - Your questions Answered
Miscellaneous

Please note: Most of the answers we feature here are from 1999 - early 2002. We endeavour to keep all links etc up to date, however if you spot any errors please let our webmaster know at It should also be noted that some replies may change in light of changes to legislation especially with regards to Planning Permission and Building Regulations. To submit a new question or to query an existing question visit http://www.ask-questions.com/yabbse/index.php.

Ref:20
Question submitted by M Skiles

Tell me what type of other furniture can I use in my sunroom, we now only have a patio table and chairs, but we are going to be using this room year around so we want to be comfortable.

This Question answered by Tina Dunlop - Wicker is the natural choice for conservatories and sunrooms. Being a natural product you can leave it untreated if you wish or paint to suit your colour scheme. It is also both strong and lightweight. Wrought iron chairs and tables are also popular - often combined with glass or slate tops. The most important consideration with all materials used is - now well will they perform in the sun and heat? I suggest you ask the retailer who supplies for specific advise on this - you don't want to find you have a problem with fading in the bright sun. For a bit of colour you may like to add some soft furnishings such as throws, rugs or cushions. Personally I like to brighten things up with florals or chintzes. Another thing you could add are window treatments such as painted shutters and sunblinds.

Ref:19
Question submitted by Isabel

I can't find anything on your web site about the security aspects of adding a largely glass structure onto a house. Having just been burgled while on holiday (through a glass kitchen window that faces onto the garden where we hope to add a sunroom) I would be interested to know what your recommendations are for making such a structure as secure as possible. Thank you.

This Question answered by Tina Dunlop - You are correct security is a big issue. As each of the different materials are often glazed in different ways its difficult to give any specific advise. Basically I would advise you to go for multipoint locking - combined if possible with shoot bolts. This is both for windows and the doors. One "brand name" often used in PVCu is SAC bolts - more suppliers now feature these type of locks and they are worthwhile having. Also with PVCu its best if you can get it to go for an internally glazed window as opposed to an externally glazed window. With hardwood you can often get locks for the doors made to various British Standards - most notably 5 and 6 Lever locks.

Ref:18
Question submitted by Peter

Is it better to have the UVPC frames reinforced with galvanised steel or aluminium? One conservatory salesman told me today that galvanised was better because it has been proved that upvc causes aluminium to corrode - crumble after 10 to 15 years. If this is true I wonder why Ultraframe use aluminium for their excellent roofs. I have been told that galvanised can rust at the cut ends. What is your view please.

This Question answered by Tina Dunlop - Both Galvanised steel and Aluminium are perfectly good materials for frame reinforcement. I would not say there is much to choose between either material. Some of the best and most respected names in the industry use these materials in approximately equal measure. Unfortunately "salespeople" will on occasion exaggerate potential problems as the try to persuade you to choose their company over another. I have never heard of the problem referred to by the salesperson that visited you. It is true that when you drill into galvanised steel some of the galvanised "coating" will be removed. Sometimes the "swarf" created does rust because the coating has been removed. (The evidence of rust soon disappears) This is considered perfectly normal and it's a complete exaggeration to suggest that the whole galvanised steel reinforcement will suddenly deteriorate and rust also.

Ref:17
Question submitted by Andy

You refer in one of your answers to the inadvisability of using brown/white PVC combination. This had seemed to us a good combination from an aesthetic and practical point of view. What exactly are the possible problems (you mentioned differential expansion - what symptoms would this cause).

This Question answered by Tina Dunlop - The main problems with expansion is that window and door openings may "stick" Quite a number of companies will supply a woodgrain on brown PVCu alternative and I feel OK with that. The only criteria I place on this alternative are that frames should be FULLY REINFORCED to help reduce the possibility of excessive expansion. A fair number of companies will no longer supply a "wood grain on white PVCu" alternative because of problems they have experienced in using this product in conservatories. This in itself should speak "VOLUMES".

Ref:16
Question submitted by Andy

Some say their Brown/White PVC combination is "OK" because the brown finish is only a film on white PVC. Obviously the physics of this is dubious as it is the colour of the finish that determines the radiant absorption, not the internal material (at least I would have thought), but the thought arises - how durable will a surface finish be if it is only a film?

This Question answered by Tina Dunlop - You have almost answered this question yourself. The physics are indeed dubious. The other issue is that if the material ever gets scratched - you will see the "white" underneath. (Scratching is hard to do - but possible) Additionally suppliers cannot clean the surplus from the welded PVCu corners in the same way as they can with white PVCu meaning that the area around the weld has to be left slightly "raised" as mechanically cleaning the corners (as would be done in white PVCu) would mean the white PVCu underneath would show through.

Ref:15
Question submitted by Andy

We've been told that with PVCu Woodgrain designs - having panels wider than 1metre are suspect, because there is a tendency for the wide spacing to allow panels to "flap about".

This Question answered by Tina Dunlop - I would agree with that. The more panels - the stronger the structure. Indeed I would suggest 750 mm - 850 mm is a more appropriate sizing.

Ref:14
Question submitted by Andy

Firms talk of "raggling" when we ask about the seal to the house. What does this entail, and how worried should we be about the design and quality of this seal - what should we be asking?

This Question answered by Tina Dunlop - Raggling was a new "term" to me (I think its mainly used in Scotland) so I asked Ron Hepburn of Stevenswood Conservatories - http://www.stevenswood.co.uk for an opinion. He believes "raggling" is essential in Scotland. Basically this is the process of "Lead Flashing" the conservatory roof and frames to your house wall. He always uses lead and advises you to be wary of some suppliers who may use "flash band" (a poorer quality and less expensive product). He also made the point that in exposed conditions "raggling" should be done around the conservatory frames also. (Some companies will only do this on the roof level) Basically raggling is done in order to prevent damp penetration /leaks entering your new conservatory area.

Ref:13
Question submitted by Andy

Mention is made of rain noise for polycarbonate roofs. We live in Scotland (where it rains). Just how much of an obtrusive problem is rain noise?

This Question answered by Tina Dunlop - This is very much a matter of personal "taste". I will say that I have never been particularly "bothered" by it - however I have known clients who have found it quite annoying. I suggest you get a small piece of polycarbonate and "experiment" with noises created by "tapping" on it etc.

Ref:12
Question submitted by Debra

What is an Orangery exactly?

This Question answered by David Salisbury - Orangeries were a fashionable addition to stately homes and country houses in the last century. The classic design had stone built parapet walls containing large vertical sliding sash windows such that the glass area on the sides was in excess of 75%. They had a glass roof on timber rafters with a box gutter (usually cast Iron) all round inside the parapet wall. They were separate from the house and used for growing oranges, lemons and other exotic plants. Today the term "Orangery" has become fuzzier, referring to a largely glazed building with a glass roof. Often now attached to the main house and used as room as well as for plants."

Ref:11
Question submitted by Liz

I have a flat roof on a kitchen approx area 8' square. I would like to put a glass roof either slanting from existing tile roof or a square glass dome piece. Is this possible?

This Question answered by Tina Dunlop - What you propose is certainly possible both as a sloping roof and a square glass dome. A number of companies make standard dome shaped structures - try a builders merchant as a potential supplier. Personally I prefer what is often referred to as Roof Lanterns for this purpose. These are really just "mini conservatories" placed on top of flat roofs. Only major consideration with a Roof Lantern is whether or not your existing flat roof is substantial enough (strong enough). If the span you wish to cover is say 4ft x 6ft it should not be a problem. It is always best to consult a specialized company for this type of work and advice. Most conservatory companies would include this type of work in their portfolio. You could also ask Christopher Cooper Roof Lanterns for advice. I should say I have never used Christopher Cooper myself - but I did find their web site quite informative. Here is a link to Christopher Cooper